Corryvreckan - "a depe horlepoole quhairin if schippis do enter thair is no refuge but death onlie".....

At 1525 we launched from Port nam Furm to make our transit of the Gulf of Corryvreckan, intending to take advantage of the slack water period as the flood tide subsided.

This narrow channel running between the islands of Scarba to the north and Jura to the south has a fearsome reputation - the quote in the title of this post is from a 16th century "rutter" or pilot book compiled by Alexander Lyndsay, the pilot on James Vth's voyage around his kingdom.  In the days of sailing ships the Admiralty Pilot warned against attempting the passage and even today in the age of powerful vessels and GPS, the current Admiralty West Coast of Scotland Pilot states that it is "very violent and dangerous" and that "no vessel should attempt the passage without local knowledge".

The Corryvreckan (speckled cauldron), third largest tidal whirlpool in the world, is only part of the problem.  Huge volumes of water pass through the channel on both flood and ebb tides, on the north-going flood the water pours up the Sound of Jura and is forced through narrow passages to the north and west, the Corryvreckan taking a significant part of the stream.  On the south-going ebb the process is reversed and water is forced through the channel from west to east.

The seabed in the channel approaches and the channel itself is very complex and accelerates the flow of water, producing tidal streams of up to 8 knots (16  kph).  A complicating factor is a pinnacle on the north side of the channel which rises from a 219m deep "hole" to within 29m of the surface, with a very steep face on its eastern side.  On the flood tide particularly, this topography combined with the speed of the flow causes a massive upthrust of water which surges past the pinnacle and sets up an enormous whirlpool with vortices spinning off downstream to the west.  If you then combine this dynamic water with a wind and swell from the western entrance to the channel, the resulting conditions can be truly elemental with standing waves of up to 9 metres and a roar which can be heard up to 20 kilometres away.

As we set out, we met the tour boat "Sea Leopard II" coming eastward from the channel.  As soon as he saw us, the captain throttled right back to minimise his wash - a courtesy we were grateful for; a wash in confused water can produce quite difficult waves.  The video embedded on Craignish Cruises website is an excellent explanation and film of the Corryvreckan - and if you don't fancy kayaking the strait then the Sea Leopard II would be by far the best way to experience the whirlpool and the wildlife of the area.  To get an idea of the power of the tidal stream at Spring tides, this video shows the RNLI lifeboat in the main flow.....

We were very cautious because from Port nam Furm it isn't possible to see what conditions are like in the Gulf itself.  We expected some swell from the west due to strong winds in the preceding days, so it would have been unseamanlike and foolish to have attempted the passage when the flood tide (3 days before Springs) was running strongly.

As we entered the channel and gained a clear view to seaward we were relieved to see quiet conditions and no breaking swell - it appeared that our prospects would be somewhat brighter than "death onlie" !  As if stage-managed, the sunny conditions were replaced with a grey cloud sheet as we entered...

In the narrowest part of the channel the water was swirling and forming gentle hydraulic cushions, but our timing had been good and we passed through easily on slack water.  One factor in our planning of time and tide for this passage was that if we encountered nasty conditions at the west side of the Corryvreckan we could wait a short time for the ebb to build and push us back through the channel to safer water in the Sound of Jura.

However, the timing needed to be calculated accurately - slack water lasts just minutes and the flow picks up very quickly.  By the time we reached the west entrance the east-going flow could already be felt and paddling became a bit more strenuous.

On the Jura side of the western entrance are a couple of small islands and skerries.  We passed inside Eilean Beag (little island) as the ebb began to really get started and had to PLF for a good 15 minutes to escape being drawn back through the Corryvreckan.  For a good five minutes we were paddling at maximum output but making good just over 1kph against the strengthening tide.  To see how strongly this section can run at full flow, the same bit of water is featured from the 9 minute mark in the HebrideanWild video.

After a strenuous pull we won safely clear of the Corryvreckan.......the wild west coast of Jura was now ours to explore.

Time and tide - heading to Jura

My spell of several months working away was finally over. Douglas and I had discussed various trips by email through the preceding couple of weeks - everywhere from the far north to the south west of Scotland - but as ever our planning would be informed by the weather.

A large high pressure system rooted over the UK gave us a great opportunity to explore somewhere exposed and remote, but there was the complication of strong westerly winds in the days before the high pressure calmed things down. After considering various options we settled on an exploration of the west coast of Jura, one of the large islands of the Inner Hebrides.  You'll be able to follow our adventure in "Sea Kayak Stereovision" by reading Douglas' account starting here.

Planning for any trip to Jura is complex.  The island is surrounded on threee sides by water with fast tidal streams, including the notorious Gulf of Corryvreckan to the north.  The only coast with relatively beningn tidal streams is the exposed, wild and uninhabited west side of the island.  All this meant that our usual two texts and a phone call wouldn't suffice at all!  Time and tide would be critical for almost every stage of the journey we intended to undertake.  Our planning remained flexible and as it turned out we altered our plan significantly during the trip.  Our initial plan was for a four day adventure leaving from the Argyll coast and heading anticlockwise around the north of Jura, right down the west coast to Islay and then back to explore the loch which almost bisects Jura before crossing back to Argyll.  We also retained a possible option of heading over to the island of Colonsay should conditions allow it.

Our first time-critical element was a departure from the mainland in sufficient time to allow a transit of the Corryvreckan around slack water.  Douglas, Mike and I met up at Carsaig Bay near Tayvallich at mid-morning to pack the boats and prepare at a measured pace.

And then we were off - another adventure was underway!  Using the light breeze we started straight across the Sound of Jura in order that we didn't get caught in the main stream of the flood tide heading north up the channel - which had the potential to carry us well beyond Jura and would be impossible to paddle against.

The Paps of Jura dominate the view across the Sound - and if our plans were successful we would be on the opposite side of these fine hills two days later.

After a steady 8 km crossing of the channel we made landfall on Jura at a pebble beach to stretch our legs.  We could now afford to take our time as we had a couple of hours to wait for slack water in the Corryvreckan

Heading north along the coast we passed the farmhouse of Barnhill. In 1946-47 an author named Eric Blair lived here while writing a novel, partly to improve his fragile health.  On 19th August 1947 Blair led a boating trip during which their boat was swept into the Corryvreckan and overturned.  Fortunately all of the party managed to scramble ashore to a rock where they were later picked up by a passing fishing boat.  Blair is better known by his nom de plume, George Orwell, and had he perished in the Corryvreckan the modern literary classic "1984" would have been lost with him.

The flood tide ran north at full pelt and with a breeze behind us we fairly belted along at 14km/h.

In order to retain control over when we entered the Gulf of Corryvreckan it was necessary to break out of the main stream and into slower moving water close inshore where boils and swirls marked the surface.

It was quieter here and we drifted along for a while as the island of Scarba grew closer, marking the left turn into the Corryvreckan strait. The nearest headland is the point where we needed to get off the water to wait for the strength of the flood to subside prior to attempting the Corryvreckan. 

The tiny pebble beach at Port nam Furm provided an easy landing and we set up our lunch things in the sun to watch the changing face of the sea as the tidal movement continued running into the channel between Jura and Scarba.  Very appropriately, the name Port nam Furm translates as Port of the Seat.  Clearly we were the latest in a long line of mariners to sit here and wait for the right conditions before entering the Corryvreckan.  An alternative translation might be Port of the Last Chance!

While we drank coffee in the pleasant sunshine an Otter fished across the bay in front of us, coming really quite close to inspect the boats on the shore.  Gradually the speed of the flood reduced towards slack water at a little after 1600.  By 1525 we were ready to get back on the water to take advantage.....

The Roseland Peninsula - St Just to St Mawes

Continuing my walk exploring the Roseland peninsula, I arrived in the village of Portscatho in a particularly heavy rain shower.  As I headed inland from the village the rain passed and a burst of sunlight brought out the colours of land, sea and sky to great effect.  My plan was to cross the peninsula using country lanes and farm tracks in order to walk back to St Mawes - the ferry timetable dictated that my pace would need to be fairly brisk....

But having arrived at St Just in Roseland, I made time to slow down and visit the parish church. Situated on a tidal creek in a very sheltered spot, the church is at the base of a steep bank, and the churchyard is one of the most remarkable anywhere.  Part cemetery, part semi-tropical garden, it's an incredibly beautiful, unique and when I visited, peaceful spot.  the church is however, one of the most photographed in Cornwall and must get very busy in the summer.

There was plenty of evidence of the early spring here - the view down to the church tower was framed by the flowers of a large Magnolia - in almost full flower before the end of March.

The church of St Just in Roseland dates from the 13th century and is built on the site of a Celtic chapel and was served by Celtic clergy from nearby Lanzeague for the first 400 years before being taken into the Saxon, bishop led, church.  Cornwall and the French region of Brittany have a shared Celtic heritage which is fiercely preserved with distinct language and customs.  A 19th century vicar planted many of the exotic trees and plants which today make this a very special and unique place.  Along the path edges there are many granite blocks inscribed with biblical verses, at this time of year surrounded by masses of Primroses.

Having lingered at the church I pressed on down the western edge of the Roseland peninsula.  A path goes through farmland just above the shore here but after a spell of wet weather it was incredibly muddy and I ended up abandoning the path to walk and clamber along the rocky shoreline itself - which proved a bit more strenuous but a lot less messy!  I arrived at St Mawes in good time, and in a burst of warm sunshine.  As I'd walked close to 25 km and had a half hour to spare before the last ferry, I felt that some refreshment would be in order, and so......

....repaired to a suitable purveyor of refreshments and sat in the sun to enjoy.....

...a frothing Sports Recovery Drink......

The ferry "Duchess of Cornwall" arrived right on time and soon I was crossing back to Falmouth, reflecting on a great day's walking.  If the Place ferry is running, this is a walk well worth the effort - starting at either Falmouth and using two ferries, or at St Mawes using just the Place ferry.  Shorter loops can be walked too, based on either St Mawes or Place.

My thanks to Sam, skipper of the "Duchess of Cornwall" for going out of his way to drop me at Place on a day when the small ferry wasn't running.

The Roseland peninsula - a Place apart

Whilst working in Cornwall I've managed to do some coastal walking based around the town of Falmouth.  One stretch of coast I'd particularly wanted to explore was the Roseland peninsula, but not having use of a car this involves two ferries.  A couple of attempts to reach the area were unsuccessful due to winter ferry timetable restrictions or windy weather preventing the smaller ferry running.

On a bright and breezy day the plan came together.  I caught the ferry from Falmouth to the pretty village of St Mawes, and although the smaller onward ferry wasn't running, the skipper of the "Duchess of Falmouth" kindly dropped me at the landing point on the Roseland - a place called Place.  From near Place, theere's a lovely view back to the neat white houses of St Mawes.

The coastal path passes behind Place House, through a churchyard containing a mediaeval stone coffin......

...before crossing farmland to the shoreline with a view to the lighthouse at St Anthony's Head.  Built in 1835, this light marks the eastern entrance to the large natural harbour of Falmouth - Carrick Roads.  It was originally lit by Argand lamps, then by pressurised vapour (the former paraffin store is near to the path) before being converted to electricity in 1954.  The light flashes white once every 15 seconds, is visible for 22 miles, and contains a red sector to warn shipping of the Manacles rocks.  As there are no longer any lightkeepers, part of the building can be rented as holiday accommodation.

Also protecting the entrance to Carrick Roads, which is one of the largest natural harbours in the world, are the remains of these gun emplacements - a view indicator sited where the guns would once have been.

The coast path from St Anthony's Head to Portscatho is a pure delight; a path winding along the cliffs above a wild and in most places inaccessible shoreline.  The weather on my walk alternated between bright sunshine and intense, lancing showers of hail and rain - it suited the scene perfectly.

 Conditions have been so mild in Cornwall through the winter of 2015-16 that it's hardly been a winter at all.  Daffodils flowered in late January, and on the last weekend of March the Primroses were well in bloom.  Quite a contrast to home in Aberdeenshire some 700 miles north!

Towan Beach was sheltered from the wind and pleasantly warm inbetween the showers; a couple of hardy souls were even taking a swim.  It was tempting to linger, but I had the ferry timetable firmly in my mind - I needed to be back at St Mawes to catch the last ferry to Falmouth, departing late afternoon, so reluctantly pressed on.

A look back to winter - brilliant Bennachie

 Brilliant low winter sunlight and a cutting northerly breeze wrung tears from the eyes on the summit of Bennachie; I'd wanted to linger and enjoy what would be my last hillwalk before a period of months away at work, but the wind put paid to a leisurely summit experience.....

I've climbed this hill many times but there's always something new and I'd not previously noticed this carving in the granite near the summit trig point.  Somebody in the 19th century took a good deal of time and effort to carve out the relief and then the lettering in what I suppose should be considered grafitti, but admittedly stylish grafitti - some sets of initials and the date of the visit.  Presumably the north wind wasn't quite so flaying when this was done!

My onward route over to the highest point of Bennachie, Oxen Craig, was an obvious white line where the snow lay on the path but had been blown from the surrounding heather.  Away in the distance, another distinctive hill, Tap o' Noth, bore a broad wreath of snow.

From below the west side, the tor of the Mither Tap looks a formidable obstacle but there are routes for the walker even here.

From farther away the view changes to the distinctive shape of the landmark visible from so much of Aberdeenshire 

On the broad slab forming the summit of Oxen Craig another grafitti artist had been at work.  It's possible that the "T" stands for Tillyfourie, an estate lying on the banks of the River Don below the hill.

I managed to get some shelter from the biting wind at the foot of the highly featured granite outcrop at Oxen Craig, with a good view back over to Millstone Hill, my first hill of the day.  Already the sun was getting low in the sky with pronounced rays forming super patterns.

The descent back to the valley was a leisurely stroll, then a walk along snowy forest tracks marked by the traces of Nordic ski - an early first run for folk grabbing the brief early winter conditions.  I arrived back at the car as the the light was fading to a clear and starry evening.  The last hill before a period away at work is always a bittersweet experience, but it had been a cracking day out.

A look back to winter - granite and blue sky

The low winter sun was just about clearing the summit of Millstone Hill at midday; the air among the trees frigid, still and sharp.  I found myself moving slowly and carefully, subconsciously tying not to break the delicate silence.



 

Above the trees the south facing slope of Bennachie's Mither Tap had been stripped of snow by the sunlight and the air was noticeably warmer - the summit boss a thrust of granite into a perfect blue sky

....although in the shade the snow still clung.  A tiny lichen caught the eye, strikingly scarlet in a monochrome miniature landscape and a good excuse to pause on the climb.

There are a few routes by which to climb to the top of the granite boss forming the Mither Tap - you can take one of the relatively easy paths or try finding your own route up slabs of varying challenge.  The rock is rough and offers good friction, but these slabs are a different prospect when wet or icy!

The Mither Tap is a "proper" little summit, it's small, well-defined with steep drops.......

To the east, the remains of the Iron Age hillfort can be made out - massive tumbled walls and a paved entranceway
 

To the west, the highest point of Bennachie, Oxen Craig, is the foreground to a wide skyline filled with the distant and snow-covered Cairngorms.  Bennachie demands a fair effort for such a small hill, but the climb is well rewarded!

Millstone Hill and Bennachie - a look back to winter

This is the last group of posts from a period in late November 2015 when a strong northerly airflow lay over Scotland bringing cold, windy  but mainly dry conditions. The strong winds continued for most of the month with persistent gale to severe gale conditions over the higher mountains and rough conditions on the sea giving little chance for sea kayaking.

There was still good walking to be had on the lower hills though, and a dusting of of overnight snow followed by a bright and sunny day was too good to miss.  My favourite local hill is Bennachie, one of the most distinctive hills in the north east of Scotland; I try to climb it at least once each period of leave from work and with the roads tricky in the early morning it seemed a great time to do so.

Although it involves a bit more effort, in my view the best route to Bennachie first traverses Millstone Hill, starting from the Donview car park.  This route climbs straight from the start with views opening up over the River Don below.

A granite bench near to top of the treeline offers superb views across the Aberdeenhire countryside - a good excuse for a break from the steep climb!

         Soon enough the summit of Millstone Hill is reached and the view across to Bennachie is revealed.

Although not the highest summit of the several which comprise Bennachie, the Mither Tap is by far the most prominent.  It's a hill which inspires tremendous affection in Aberdeenshire folk - an for me as so many others, the first sighting whether from road or perhaps on an incoming flight signals "home".

My onward route descends to the trees at the "Heather Brig", a dip between the hills, before climbing the path clearly visible straight towards the volcanic granite plug of the Mither Tap.

I made this climb on St Andrew's day, and so this saltire formed by snow being scoured across cracks in a granite slab seemed very appropriate 

Down at the Heather Brig it was sheltered from the wind and the snow was lying where it had fallen, edging every branch against a blue winter sky - it was such a great day to be out on the hill.....

Scarpa R-Evo GTX Hillwalking Boot - Long Term Review

A 3-season boot is one of the "go to" items in a hillwalker's kit; one pair of boots which can potentially take the walker from valley paths onto the high mountains in everything except full winter conditions and  cope with scrambling too when required.

I've had lots of pairs of boots designed as "3season", ranging from early forays with heavy single-piece leather boots and almost rigid soles to much lighter boots which really weren't up to what I was expecting them to do.  Gradually, over a period of 30 odd years I've come to know what kind of boot suits my feet and the type of walking I do, which involves long days on sometimes pathless terrain ranging from bare rock, boulders and scree through rough heather moorland to boggy, grassy ground and stream crossings (very often all in the same day!).  I expect a good 3 season boot to cope with all that, to be supportive if I'm carrying a backpacking load, to be comfortable through a long day and waterproof (within reason - some days would need waders to keep out the water), to be durable - and to do all this without me noticing I'm wearing them.  It's a tough set of criteria.

For winter (4 season, crampon compatible) boots I much prefer leather boots without breathable linings; in my view a well-made single leather boot with minimal stitching shouldn't need such a lining.  However, leather boots designed for 3 season mountain use are usually of thinner construction and utilise breathable liners.


Scarpa are one of the manufacturers who make boots which I know should fit me well.  Being designed in the UK they are suited to Scottish conditions, and without exception the Scarpa boots I've owned previously have been well designed and used high quality materials.

Scarpa's R-Evo GTX  is marketed as a 3 season trekking and hiking boot with some innovative features including "Sock Fit Technology".  This last bit did make me slightly wary; my preference is very much "simple is best".  I've owned a pair of R-Evo's for 18 months during which time they've covered a good amount of variable terrain and been generally bashed about on the hill.

The grey and orange colour scheme is initially quite bright and won't be to everyone's taste, but I found it quite smart.  The first thing I noticed when trying the boots was that they fitted as expected and were instantly comfortable from the box.  The "Sock Fit Technology" links the tongue, collar and ankle with a variable fit thanks to a section of Scholler fabric (the black parts of the boot) and a well thought-out lacing arrangement.  The effect is ever so subtle, but the foot is held withing the boot without having to crank the lacing - I mainly notice this on steep descents when it seems to help reduce the tendency of the foot to move forwards to the toe of the boot.

The  R-Evos are very comfortable and for me have just the right blend of support without feeling rigid or restricted.  The supplied footbed was replaced straight away with a Superfeet Green Insole, as I do with all my boots.  At 1320 grams for a pair of UK size 8 (Euro 42), these aren't lightweight, but the weight is very reasonable for a mountain boot and they've not felt heavy or "clumpy" at all.

The 1.8mm water resistant suede upper is backed with a Gore-tex waterproof and breathable lining.  This can sometimes be a little sweaty in hot weather but has proved very waterproof - the only wet feet I've had have been when crossing running water which was deeper than the height of the boot.  The upper moulds to the shape of the foot after a reasonable amount of wear

After 18 months regular use, durability has been impressive.  The Fagus sole unit is a highlight of the boot in my opinion, it grips well, has a nice "rolling" profile when walking and good shock absorption.  The flex is just right in combining comfort on long days with sufficient support for use on rough ground and occasional scrambling. Crucially, the heel breast is prominent to give grip at the heel when descending slippy or gravelly ground.  There's obvious wear after 18 months use, but the sole is proving very resilient.  The rubber rand around the toe area is useful in protecting the toe area from bumps and scrapes on rocky terrain. 

The Shoeller fabric section has stood up to the use the boots have received; I'd initially thought it might wear quicker than the suede section but that hasn't been the case at all.  The effect of the "sock fit" is, as previously mentioned, very subtle but it is noticeable.  It's possible that the Shoeller fabric contributes to the boot being a little sweaty in hot weather - and truly this is the only slight criticism I have of the R-Evo's.  It's not a major issue and I find other Goretex lined boots I've owned to be similarly warm.

The Scarpa R-Evo's aren't cheap, retailing in the UK at around £180, but the quality of design and construction coupled with the durability and comfort makes them well worth the outlay in my opinion.  They have satisfied all the tough criteria of a true 3-season hillwalking boot and have been outstandingly comfortable even on long days.

I can wholeheartedly recommend the Scarpa R-Evo's - if you're looking for a quality 3-season boot for use from glen to summit then these are well worth looking at.  I'm hoping that when I do wear this pair out that they're still in production so that I can replace them with another pair!

Conflict of interest statement:  I purchased my boots at retail price (less a club discount) from a national retailer and have no connection with Scarpa or the retailer apart from being a satisfied customer.