Loch Enard light show

On my return from Achnahaird towards Loch Kirkaig I took a more or less direct line north-east across Enard Bay. The earlier sunshine had given way to shower clouds which were dipping to brush Stac Pollaidh and Cul Mor with veils of rain.  The quality of light is one of the outstanding features of the north west and showery weather can sometimes produce some lovely and dramatic effects.  I wasn't to be disappointed on this afternoon.........

As the rain passed eastwards over Suilven the hill was temporarily obscured.  When it emerged, the flanks of the hill were washed with a rainbow........

.....which spread right across the width of the hill in a band of colour.  So intense was the colour that it was reflected across the the calm water of the bay.  I was absolutely transfixed by this natural light show, which lasted for some ten minutes before fading.

The passing of the rain was followed by some very clear air as the temperature dipped.  The Coigach hills were now pin-sharp silhouettes on the sky under a defined low bank of cloud, heralding the next element of the light show.......

As the early evening sun dipped below the cloud bank it fired the rocky gneiss shore of Eilean Mor (big island) with an intense warm light which didn't quite wxtend across to the mainland shore.  The effect was to highlight the island as if in a spotlight and to throw the reflection back across the water.  My paddling pace had now slowed to a trickle as I watched the light slowly changing across this huge and ancient landscape.

Turning into Loch Kirkaig, I headed over to the north side of the loch to stay in the sunshine as I paddled the last few kilometers to Inverkirkaig with the western peak of Suilven as my headmark.  It was a truly beautiful evening to finish a very fine day of sea kayaking  :o)

The Infinity Pool of Enard Bay

A slender weather window in the building autumnal pattern of Atlantic low pressure areas offered the chance to do some sea kayaking in one of my favourite areas - Assynt.

Starting at 6am from home and a steady drive with a stop for breakfast saw me on the water at Inverkirkaig before 11am.  The last 20 miles of this journey take over an hour on the twisting and very narrow road which leads north from Coigach.  Inverkirkag is a good launch spot but there's very limited parking on the shore.  Often it's necessary to drop boats and kit and then park at the car park a kilometer to the east up the River Kirkaig.  The other factor to be aware of is that the tide here goes out quite some distance!

It pays to look behind you as you paddle out of Loch Kirkaig.  The presence of Suilven (Old Norse - Pillar Mountain) dominates the bay but is hidden from the shore by a ridge behind the houses.

Rounding Rubha na Breige and heading south, I paddled out into Enard Bay with the silhouettes of some more of Assynt's distinctive hills ahead.  From left to right are Cul Mor, Stac Pollaidh and Beinn an Eoin.

Following the indented and intricate coastline of Enard Bay gives some great kayaking  among lovely scenery and a couple of surprising sights too.  Tucked at the head of a small bay in Loch an Eisg-Brahcaidh, this bridge spans a rocky shelf behind which is a tidal pool.  At this stage of the tide a small waterfall is formed, which on approaching........

......reveals a gorgeous Infinity Pool! 

Bright and breezy in Loch Kirkaig

The following day had a forecast for continuing fine and warm weather, though with strong eastery winds.  On a west coast, it seems that this should give shelter, but the topology of the north west of Scotland tends to mean that easterlies blow directly along glens carved during the ice age and don't give sheltered conditions at all. 

My plan was for a short paddle out of Loch Kirkaig then south around Rubha na Breige to explore the islands in Loch an Eisg Brachaidh. The paddle out of Loch Kirkaig was alongside wooded cliffs with emerald water below.

Getting around Rubha na Breige was a bit tricky.  The wind was blowing along cliffs on both north and south sides of the headland, causing turbulence directly off the point itself.  I had to brace a couple of times when gusts came directly down from the cliffs and was glad to get clear and into Loch an Eisg-Brachaidh.  The view ahead took in Cul Mor and Stac Pollaidh, two more of the distinctive Assynt mountains.

The wind seemed to be strengthening a notch so I cut short my exploration of the islands, settling for landing near the head of the loch.  Heading back out with the wind at my back I needed only rudder strokes to keep up a good speed; and this time I headed well offshore before turning back into Loch Kirkaig to avoid the turbulence.

A landing at a sheltered cove out of the wind gave chance to get my breath back after a couple of kilometres of paddling into the stiff breeze.  Inverkirkaig lay ahead, but until well into Loch Kirkaig, the view is missing that vital ingredient.....

The backdrop of Suilven.

The push into the loch was quite a slow affair against the breeze, but with blue sky, blue sea and a cracking view I wasn't complaining!

After dinner we strolled along the shore to the River Kirkaig, and watched trout in the pools below the trees. 

Walking back, the evening sun was dazzling, the blue sea turned silver beyond the shingle exposed by the tide.  We'd had a super few days in this beautiful part of the country; it remains among our most favourite places.

Guests in the garden at Inverkirkaig

Leaving Soyea Island, my route back to Inverkirkaig first went across Loch Inver to Kirkaig Point.  A modern looking fishing vessel passed ahead of me on her way out of Lochinver; the "Kambur" (FD 454), a Faroese registered trawler.

South from Kirkaig Point, the entrance to Loch Kirkaig is another which is not immediately obvious from seaward. A small skerry lies in mid channel and the enclosing rocky arms conceal views of the loch on the approach.

Once past the skerry the view opens up nicely.  Loch Kirkaig is shallow and dries out for a kilometre at low water.  As along much of this coast, Suilven dominates the view inland.  The name Kirkaig derives from the Norse "Kirku vik" (church bay) indicating that there was once a church in the vicinity.

In this view, our accommodation at Kirkaig Chalets can be just made out as the shoreline building at the left end of the shore.

I was able to land at high water just in front of the chalet.  Carrying the boat up it seemed that we had guests...

Two Red Deer were busily cropping the grass, one of them on the enclosed garden area.  Both seemed to be quite young animals and were fairly small and skinny, perhaps reflecting the lack of really good grazing on this coast.

The deer were quite accustomed to being in close proximity of people and allowed fairly close approach.  Although the gate was shut and a fence enclosed the grassy garden, the method of entry and exit presented no problems!

Slowing down in Assynt

During the spell of warm sunny weather at the end of May 2012 we took the opportunity for a few days in Scotland's north west. Assynt has long been a favourite area of ours - we've been there in all weathers and at all times of the year and the place never disappoints. The weekend's forecast was outstanding and the day got warmer and warmer on the scenic drive from Inverness past Ullapool and into Coigach. 

Once off the main Ullapool road, all ways to Assynt are single track roads with passing places.  Speeds drop dramatically and this is a good thing; there's time to enjoy the tremendous scenery.  This is the view from Aird of Coigach to some of Assynt's strikingly individual hills with the pointed summit of Stac Pollaidh prominent and the mass of Cul Mor to the right.

We'd booked to stay at the very comfortable Kirkaig chalets which are situated right on the shore at Inverkirkaig.  After a hot day, the cool of the evening brought a wash of colour to the view over Loch Kirkaig.

It doesn't get truly dark during the summer in the north of Scotland; well past 2300 the sunset continued to smoulder below a crescent moon.  We sat out on the balcony into the late evening, absorbing the sights and sounds of the shoreline.  Conditions for the following day looked superb.