The end of a fine Fyne journey

I woke to birdsong and warm sunshine at our camp near Ardlamont Point.  We ate breakfast while enjoying the sights and sounds of the place.

Donny left earlier in his F-RIB than we did in our kayaks, he wanted to get back to the launch point at Kames at a relatively high tide which would considerably reduce the carrying distance with his boat, kit and outboard engine.  It had been great to do another trip with Donny; his film of the journey is here.

After a leisurely breakfast while waiting for the dew to dry off our tents we packed up too and got underway.  We erased all trace of the previous night's fire, which was lit below the Spring high water line.   There was remarkably little plastic washed up here; it's possible somebody has carried out a beach clean.  We scoured the length of the beach and removed the few bits of plastic bottles and a fish-farm feed bag to take away with us. This beach makes a fine camp site, it's one we'll return to in the future.

The paddle back to Kames was remarkable for the very warm and still conditions we experienced.  We sweated profusely even at a slow pace of travel - in March!  We returned to our launch site late morning and packed up - it was the end of a fine Fyne journey.

 Our journey to Inchmarnock and around lower loch Fyne had been comparatively short in distance - we travelled 64km over two half days and two full days, but had been packed with good things, the most important of which was getting out on a multi-day trip again with good friends and in a great location.  The weather had played a big part in the trip and had encouraged us to arrive at camping spots in the mid afternoon rather than cranking out distance; it was a routine which worked very well.

Ordnance Survey 1:50K Landranger maps 62 (North Kintyre and Tarbert) and 63 (Firth of Clyde) cover the area in which we paddled.  We launched from the concrete slipway at Blair's Ferry where there is parking for several cars across the road from the slip.  The slip itself was built during the Second World War for operating landing craft in preparation for the D-Day landings.  The car parking is on concrete slabs which were the vehicle muster and turning area and the imprint of the I Corps insignia can still be made out, pressed into the concrete ramp.

There are no significant tidal streams to be concerned about on this trip, but Ardlamont Point and Inchmarnock can be difficult places to paddle in strong wind, being exposed to most wind directions.  Ardlamont Point in particular can be a challenge.

The 30 hour adventure - commuters

Sea kayaking expeditions can involve paddling in remote and distant locations, require detailed planning and long preparation, then lengthy journeying to reach the starting point. But what if this could be found much closer to hand? OK, so for those living in the UK there's always the north west Highlands or the Hebrides.

Perhaps something even closer might be possible? Surely you can't have adventure, wilderness and stunning wildlife encounters within 50 km of one of the UK's most populous cities....can you?

We think that you can - and what's more that an adventure needn't involve a long trip. Mike, Douglas and I set out on a small journey which would start and finish just 55km from the very centre of Glasgow. Our "planning" was essentially two texts and a phone call on a Sunday evening; we arranged to meet on the Isle of Bute on Monday morning at a time when many commuters would be arriving at work.

You will also be able to follow our journey on Douglas' blog here

I was already on Bute visiting relatives (with a kayak and kit of course!) and after meeting the commuters off the ferry we headed over to the west of the island, a mere 10 minute drive from the ferry terminal, and got ready to launch at Kildavanan.  The morning was overcast but pleasantly warm and the forecast was for similar conditions to last through the day.

The "Kil" prefix suggests that a place is associated with one of the early Columban churchmen - it means Cill or "cell".  So here may have been the place where a monk named Davan or Davanan made his home.  Nearby is St Colmac, probably indicating another churchman, there's a stone cross near the farm of the same name.  Even older sites are nearby too, a stone circle and an ancient earthwork.  We would certainly not be the first to commute to and from this shingle beach.

Getting on the water didn't take long and the simple rhythm of paddling was easy to re-aquire even after a long lay-off due to work.  We headed out to the Ardlamont buoy, hoping to meet "Kylie", a female dolphin which can often be seen near the buoy.  Today there was no sign of her; the sea was flat calm and we certainly would have noticed if she was around.  We thought perhaps that she was away on a commute of her own....

We decided that the ferry journey, drive and crossing from Bute had qualified us as overdue for second breakfast, and accordingly headed for a small shingle beach just to the west of Ardlamont Point.  There was almost no noise apart from the gentle movement of water on the shingle and the gentle mastication of three rather contented sea kayakers.

Our route would next take us across the mouth of Loch Fyne to the the shores of the Kintyre peninsula.  This stretch of water is notorious for rough seas and ferocious wind which can be funnelled out of the length of Loch Fyne making passage here a serious affair.

No such issues today though.  As we paddled colours, which up until now had been muted in the overcast conditions, bcame more vibrant and then.....

...we were in full, glorious Spring sunshine and on glassy calm sea. It was a truly great morning to be out on the water.

We occasionally stopped paddling to simply drift and enjoy being in this place, close in distance to a huge city but a million miles away in atmosphere.  As we drifted, a pod of Common Dolphins streaked ahead of us - moving fast and direct as they hunted for fish.  We hadn't seen Kylie, but here were some of her kin on a fast commuter route from Loch Fyne.

We took a rather slower paced journey to another small piece of heaven; a sparkling white beach fringed with turquoise water.  The vote was unanimous - first luncheon (*) was called!

* There's a subtle but simple distinction between second breakfasts and first luncheons on our trips

An entertaining crossing to Bute

Moving out toward the tip of Ardlamont Point, the island of Bute became visible beyond.  The wind was blowing directly from the island, funnelled through the lowest part of Bute across Ettrick Bay where I hoped to land.  I took a final photo, battened myself down and headed out.

The wind, waves and some wind against tide along and just beyond the point gave some of the most challenging conditions I have ever paddled in.  A short, vicious swell was being punched up as the water shoaled approaching the point itself, and was combining with an incoming swell from the south east.  The boat was pitching and slamming wildly, sheets of spray and water being hurled back across me.  The swells were head height or higher, tumbling and breaking from different directions. This demanded absolute concentration - one small mistake here would be punished instantly. 

I was barely making progress around the point, but found myself actually quite enjoying the ride.  At worst, I could hold the boat head into the the sea and be blown back around the point if I needed to.  Of course as I gradually won clear and into the Sound of Bute, this option wasn't available; being blown backwards would have seen me on the lee shore.  Not good.  Equally, although I could cope with the sea from ahead, going down-sea in this would have been much more difficult.

Fortunately once clear of the point the confusion of different swells settled into a steady direction, and though still large, steep and short period was much more predictable and manageable.  I settled down for the battle, a simple enough game of physical and mental endurance against a relentless wind.  The boat was riding well over the sea, and more than once I was glad that it was loaded with camping kit as more than half of the fore end hung up over a particularly nasty swell; being flipped backwards was not a prospect I relished!

Eventually I won into the wide arms of Ettrick Bay and gradually the swell had receded as it had less fetch to kick up, but if anything the wind strength was higher here as it barrelled across Bute.  A quick re-evaluation of transits and I decided to head slightly north to the beach at Kildavanan, which forms the northern arm of the bay.  Here I'd get more shelter and the paddle wasn't directly against the wind.

I reached Kildavanan, tired but elated after an entertaining crossing.  The 4 kilometers had taken almost three hours of unrelenting effort.  I was thickly encrusted with salt from the spray and quite hungry! 

Journey's end at Kildavanan with Arran beyond.  The wind still flattening the water in Ettrick Bay, but as ever it didn't look as imposing from the beach.....

I was picked up at Kildavanan - it helps having relatives on the island!

This is a really good trip with variety and wildlife.  In the more usual westerly airflow it would make sense to start at Colintraive and finish in upper Loch Fyne.  The weather for my trip was a complete contrast to that experienced by Douglas Wilcox and friends on their trip in the same area, this variety of conditions and light is surely one of the attractions of sea kayaking in Scotland.

The distances were 36 kilometers on day 1 and 25 on Day 2; add about 20 kilometers to complete the journey through the Kyles.

Four Ordnance Survey Landranger 1:50,000 maps are required for the trip:

Sheet 56 Loch Lomond & inverary
Sheet 55 Lochgilphead & Loch Awe
Sheet 62 North Kintyre & Tarbert
Sheet 63 Firth of Clyde Area

In upper Loch Fyne HW is +0011 Greenock. 
Tidal stream at the narrows runs at 1Kt Springs, but 2Kts close to the end of An Oitir
Tidal streams in lower Loch fyne are not significant.

Tidal streams enter both the East and West Kyles of Bute on the flood, meeting some way east of the Burnt Islands.  Streams may reach up to 3kts at Springs