Continuing my walk exploring the Roseland peninsula, I arrived in the village of Portscatho in a particularly heavy rain shower. As I headed inland from the village the rain passed and a burst of sunlight brought out the colours of land, sea and sky to great effect. My plan was to cross the peninsula using country lanes and farm tracks in order to walk back to St Mawes - the ferry timetable dictated that my pace would need to be fairly brisk....
There was plenty of evidence of the early spring here - the view down to the church tower was framed by the flowers of a large Magnolia - in almost full flower before the end of March.
The church of St Just in Roseland dates from the 13th century and is built on the site of a Celtic chapel and was served by Celtic clergy from nearby Lanzeague for the first 400 years before being taken into the Saxon, bishop led, church. Cornwall and the French region of Brittany have a shared Celtic heritage which is fiercely preserved with distinct language and customs. A 19th century vicar planted many of the exotic trees and plants which today make this a very special and unique place. Along the path edges there are many granite blocks inscribed with biblical verses, at this time of year surrounded by masses of Primroses.
Having lingered at the church I pressed on down the western edge of the Roseland peninsula. A path goes through farmland just above the shore here but after a spell of wet weather it was incredibly muddy and I ended up abandoning the path to walk and clamber along the rocky shoreline itself - which proved a bit more strenuous but a lot less messy! I arrived at St Mawes in good time, and in a burst of warm sunshine. As I'd walked close to 25 km and had a half hour to spare before the last ferry, I felt that some refreshment would be in order, and so......
....repaired to a suitable purveyor of refreshments and sat in the sun to enjoy.....
...a frothing Sports Recovery Drink......
The ferry "Duchess of Cornwall" arrived right on time and soon I was crossing back to Falmouth, reflecting on a great day's walking. If the Place ferry is running, this is a walk well worth the effort - starting at either Falmouth and using two ferries, or at St Mawes using just the Place ferry. Shorter loops can be walked too, based on either St Mawes or Place.
My thanks to Sam, skipper of the "Duchess of Cornwall" for going out of his way to drop me at Place on a day when the small ferry wasn't running.
I need recovery drink ;ø)
ReplyDeleteIt works every time Rolf - and assists the local economy too!
ReplyDelete:o)
A great day, Ian. I too could spend a lot of time exploring these marvellous parish churches, as old as meaningful time, and so full of stories. I look forward to sharing with you a "tribute" to all of the above. ;) Warm wishes.
ReplyDeleteHi Duncan - I wish I'd had more time at St Just church; a very remarkable place
DeleteWarm wishes