A closer look at Belnahua

Quarrying for slate started on Belnahua in the late 19th century, much later than on the other "Slate Islands" of Easdale, Luing, Seil and Ellanbeich (which was joined to Seil by quarry spoil).  Belnahua was the only island not owned by the Marquisies of Breadalbane, but the methods and pattern of quarrying was much the same.  The island is returning to nature with thick grass and wildflowers slowly reclaiming the rusting remnants of machinery and the houses.

Worked slate lies around the preiphery of the island and on the beach I found this piece.  It looks to have been worked to make a weight, maybe for a net or a piece of equipment.

Slate from all the islands is referred to as "Easdale Slate".  It can be found all over the UK and around the world; the Breadalbanes held land in North America and the West Indies - many public buildings in eastern Canada are roofed with Easdale slate.  It can be easily distinguished from slate qurried elsewhere (the quarries at Ballachulish, in North Wales. the Lake District etc)  as it has a distinctive ripple on the surface and is speckled.  Closer inspection of the speckles reveals...

Iron pyrites (fools gold).  The deposits can be as much as 15mm across and make the slate glisten attractively in sunlight.

 

Other rock types occur on all the islands, principally Hornblende Schist and intrusions of hard Whinstone.  This was a nuisance to the quarriers but was utilised for building the houses.  Both types are much more readily colonised by lichens than slate.

Down on the shore, the rusy iron stain from pyrites on this slate was nicely mirrored by a crab shell

The slate breaks down to a fine black sand, making a nice contrast with the iron pyrites and with this piece of fish backbone.

Belnahua is a fascinating place and I could have happily spent much longer there.  The small tidal race off the south end showed that the ebb tide was increasing out of the Firth of Lorn though - it was time to go before the paddle back to Ellanabeich became a slog.  It was slower going on the return against both tide and a breeze, and I took a slightly wider line to avoid being pulled into the mouth of Cuan Sound with its strong tides.

It was pleasant however in bright sunshine with super views and time to reflect on the unique atmosphere of Belnahua.  I must go back and stay overnight on the island to explore  more fully.

The Slate Islands - Belnahua

On a bright morning with a light northerly breeze I set out on a paddle to visit two of the islands accessible from Ellanabeich, Insh and Belnahua.  Both are in the Firth of Lorn but are quite different places due to the rock type.

Paddling north from Easdale Sound the coast is formed of steep cliffs of volcanic rock complete with geos and caves.  Now exposed to a cold wind and in the shade of the cliffs it was quite chilly so I soon moved out and began the crossing to Insh.

Insh is a comon root name (mostly written as Inch) and just meaning island.  The island is a low ridge of rock and from a distance I could see no obvious landing places.  The hills beyond Insh are on the island of Mull; Beinn Buie (yellow hill) is on the right.

Arriving at the north end of Insh I spotted a strange dwelling, a cave which has been walled at the entrance and has windows, a water supply and a small outbuilding.  Apparently the owner of the island occupies this occasionally.  There was no easy landing nearby; indeed the only place I was able to land was on one of these tiny pebble beaches on the east side, just behind a tiny island.

It was still early in the day and the ebb was now running south down the Firth of Lorn so I decided to use the push from both wind and tide to paddle down to another of the "slate islands", Belnahua.

After a pleasant crossing I landed on the tiny island of Belnahua.  Uninhabited since the early 20th century, it was the site of much slate quarrying.   Worked but discarded slate lies everywhere. This row of cottages and some others on the other side of the island are in a row near the beach for good reason.

The centre of the island has been completely quarried out.  Now flooded, the depth of the workings can be seen through the very clear water.  Life for the small community here was always marginal; nearly all food and supplies had to come by boat from Cullipool on Luing through waters with strong tides and exposure to big swells; the island didn't even have a reliable water supply.  When the able bodied men left to take up military service in 1914 the end was imminent and the remaining residents left soon after.

As I was exploring, more paddlers arrived.  Two doubles; one inflatable and a vintage Klepper folding boat landed on the beach, each containing a father and son team.  We chatted in the sunshine, reflecting on what life must have been like here, especially during winter storms.