A "green winter" day in Glen Tanar

We took a walk at Glen Tanar today; the location chosen to maximise shelter from a blustery and strong north westerly wind.

Among the pines there's no obvious sign of winter - everything is green and especially so when the low sun lights up the trees.

A large pine had been brought down by recent storm force winds.  It had been moved off a path by cutting into sections and bodily dragged clear.  Someone with a very sharp chainsaw and a steady hand had been at work here!

The branches of the upper part of the tree showed the beautiful reddish colour of these iconic trees; it's not easy to get close to the upperworks of mature pines unless the fall or, as sometimes happnes, limbs become detached.

I gathered up a couple of handfuls of shavings from the tree to put in a spare food bag - this will be tinder for lighting a camp fire on a beach somewhere in the future!

So far, a "green" winter with generally mild temperatures, even some faint warmth from the January sunshine.  But there may be change on the way.  Subtle alterations in the stratosphere are giving weather forecasters indications of colder conditions towards the end of the month.

In which case this sign "Drive carefully down the hill" might be quite appropriate!

A glimpse ahead at Glen Tanar

January has seen some very wintry weather; periods of snow and deep frost interspersed with deep Atlantic low pressure systems bringing wind and rain.  The last few days have brought that sort of cycle in miniature, and created conditions in which a hillwalker became disorientated and lost his life on Lochnagar.

The very day after that tragic event there was a brief gap, just a morning, when it was possible to get a glimpse forward towards the end of winter - although for sure there's plenty of winter still to come.

We took a walk in the beautiful pine forest of Glen Tanar, near Aboyne.  In many respects a traditional estate, Glen Tanar is also a National Nature Reserve and is administered by a charitable trust.  There's a car park signposted off the south Deeside road (with a daily charge) from where a number of waymarked walks radiate.  We decided on one of our favourites; a 10km route which goes up the glen towards Mount Keen.

Adjacent to the fine packhorse bridge just across the road from the car park there's a small visitor centre with information about the estate and its wildlife.  Outside, we chatted to the ranger who was enjoying a coffee in the sunshine.  We remarked that this was the first day since November when it's been warm enough to do that! The birds seemed to have felt it too - Great Tits and Blue Tits were calling away as if it was early Spring rather than the middle of winter.

The chapel of St Lesmo's was lit with warm sunlight;  benches placed along a south east wall catch the best of any morning sun.

The lochan near to Glen Tanar House was almost completely iced over even though in full sun; it will have been this way for several weeks.

The pine forest is a real joy to walk through at any time of year and maybe especially so in winter when the evergreen pines are a contrast to the bare branches elsewhere. 

The Water of Tanar drains the corries below Mount Keen and the Mounth, giving its water to the River Dee at Aboyne.  There was sufficient warmth in the morning to spend some time just watching the water flow (time doing this is never wasted!).  We heard, then glimpsed a pair of Dippers zipping down the river, and in another glimpse ahead, singing their bright song.

By the afternoon rain and wind had arrived as another low pressure system passed overhead, and 24 hours later the temperature has fallen from double figures to near freezing, with a raw northwesterly wind.  Yes, there's plenty of winter to come, but it was good to get a glimpse ahead!

A riverside walk in Glen Tanar

Home at last after a long four months working away, the perfect way to settle back in seemed to be a riverside stroll.  After looking at wide and empty horizons for so long, the intimate surroundings of Glen Tanar provided a beautiful contrast.  We started near Bridge o' Ess and walked along the minor road up the glen to the old pack bridge which gives access to a small visitor centre before heading back downstream along the Water of Tanar.

The river is at a low summer level, much different than the brawling spates of late winter when huge boulders can be moved downstream.  The Tanar is born high in the hills which separate Deeside from the Angus Glens and starts life as a typical highland stream before passing through pinewoods to join the River Dee near Aboyne.

 

There are quiet pools in the river in which we saw lots of tiny Brown Trout, and sections of moving water running gently over granite boulders.

 

The late summer flowers were in full bloom - this I think is Creeping Forget-Me-Not (Mysotosis secunda)

A much easier one to identify here, Common Knapweed (Centaurea nigra), also known as "hardheads" and used by generations of small boys  to hit each other with!

Here and there under the birches and alders of the riverbank were small stands of beautiful Bluebells.  the nomenclature is slightly confusing - the "official" name for this plant is Harebell (Campanula rotundifolia) and it is also known as Scottish Bluebell to distinguish it from the slightly smaller and more brilliantly blue flower known here as "English Bluebell".

 Whatever name you use, the fragile beauty of the flowers is a joy.

In a slightly more open area we found the delicate flowers of Herb-Robert ( Geranium robertianum). This plant has a traditional use to treat toothache and nosebleeds, and has an unusual odour of burning rubber when the leaves are crushed, the source of another common name of "stinking bob".

The wildflowers were attracting butterflies too.  Under the more open pinewood we saw several species including several Ringlets (Aphantopus hyperantus).  A recent colonist in the Cairngorms region, the caterpillars of this butterfly feed on grasses rather than specific food plants.

Soon we were back at Bridge o' Ess; it had been a great short walk and the feast of colour and greenery along with the gentle flow of the river had definitely eased the jet lag!

Above the pines of Glen Tanar

My first few days home after a lengthy spell working away were family days, catching up and visiting.  The weather this winter has been very different from last; temperatures in the first few days of January 2012 have been around 10 Celcius, compared with minus 10 Celcius in January 2011 - some variation!  The weather so far has been dominated by strong winds including two systems which crossed Scotland bringing Storm (and in some places Hurricane) force winds.

Despite the mild temperatures, it is winter.  One morning we looked up to see about 20 Whooper Swans (Cygnus cygnus) passing low over the house as they came in to land on a nearby field, their wonderfully wild trumpeting calls a true sound of winter.  These are visitors from the high Arctic, perhaps remaining here in the north east while the weather is mild.

On what would be the first day back at work for many after the Christmas and Hogmanay break, a clear and bright morning was too good to miss.  I headed the short distance to Glen Tanar for a modest hillwalk above the pine forest. 

Caledonian pine forest and an attractive river make Glen Tanar a popular area for walking and mountain biking.  The estate has waymarked several walks and there are also some very old rights of way known as Mounth Roads which cross the area.

Caledonian pines are one of my favourite trees and just seem to have a sense of belonging to this landscape.  The real forest specialists of Scottish wildlife have evolved colouration to match these wonderful trees; Pine Martens and Red Squirrels match the warm rufous colour of the upper branches, as does the cock Crossbill whilst the hen is coloured to blend in with the green of the needles.  Crested Tits match perfectly the grey, lichen speckled lower limbs of the trees.

From near the start of my route, the forest stretches out in a carpet of rich green toward the high hills of Mount Keen and Braid Cairn which form the head of the glen.

The walk through the forest was, as ever, a joy.  Although it's winter there is wildlife to see and hear with small birds in the trees as well as Roe Deer in the more open areas.

Where the track emerges from the closer packed plantation onto the open moor above, this dead giant stands isolated, the stunted tree behind showing the effects of exposure to the wind.  Even in death this tree is part of the forest; near the base were tiny seedlings, the first signs of the wood recolonising this area.

A short climb over heather soon got me to the summit of Clachan Yell, the name perhaps is a derivation of Clachan Geal - the fair stones.  The name has also been adoped by one of Scotland's best known Ceilidh bands!  At 626 metres it's a relatively small hill but a pleasant summit nevertheless.  As with many of the Cairngorm hills it is a rounded heathery dome studded with a granite tor.  The hill in the background is Morven above the Howe o'Cromar.

On the way to my next summit, Black Craig the going underfoot is on wind cropped heather with clumps of deer grass which in the low winter sun was the colour of bright flame against the brown heather.  Black Craig is the beter viewpoint of the two hills with a panorama taking in the Cairngorm giants to the west, Mount Keen to the south and the two Aberdeenshire landmarks of Bennachie to the north and Clachnaben to the east.

Reaching the track again from Black Craig, I dropped down to near Shiel of Glentanar where a stone bridge crosses the Water of Glentanar using two slabs as foundations.  It was nearly sunset, 3.30pm at this time of year and my 10km walk back along the river and through the forest encompassed the dusk, the twilight and the rising of a bright full moon.

The route I walked was 23 kilometres with about 500 metres of ascent, and has variety and great views - perfect for a cracking winter day like this.