Saturday 27 December 2014


The post-Christmas weather has continued to be frosty in Aberdeenshire; minus 7 Celsius by night and barely rising to freezing by day.  Scenery is reduced to a basic but graceful state...

                             which trees have become ghosts of themselves...

                            ...form and pattern are enhanced and etched everywhere one looks....

                                    ...whilst close up there is exquisite patterning....

     ...and the long-dead stems of plants are gilded with flowers of ice.  It's cold and monochrome, but so, so beautiful.

Friday 26 December 2014

A Christmas cracker

Boxing Day dawned cold and frosty, I stepped out from the house for a walk on the Correen Hills into a bracing -6 degrees Celsius, ideal conditions for walking off festive food!

The frost had been deep and penetrating and wouldn't lift all day.  Thin winter sunlight lent some brightness but not much warmth through a haze of frosty cloud.  The world seemed somehow stilled and there was barely a sound to be heard on the walk up a the valley on a farm track.

The only running water was in a small burn coming from the slopes of Manabattock Hill which had created miniature chandeliers of ice, improbably suspended from just one reed.

Climbing out of the valley via the Fouchie Shank got me into the sunlight which felt a degree or two warmer than the blue shade in the valley.  Ahead the slopes of the day's objective of Lord Arthur's Hill with the line of shooting butts visible on the skyline.  The climb isn't steep but I was at least able to walk some warmth into cold muscles.  The ground was bone hard, every drop of moisture locked into ice. 

A mix of snow and frost formed a light coating on the ground and the frost had lent the heather shoots temporary white flowers of exquisite delicacy. The constrast between these miniature wonders and the wider view was startling..... look up from the ground was to have the eye drawn miles through the frosty air.  To the north west lie The Buck o' the Cabrach and far Ben Rinnes.

To the south the view is dominated by Lochnagar, the elegant ridgelines of the mountain could be clearly picked out through binoculars, the air was gin-clear in this direction.

After a brief stay at the summit of Lord Arthur's Hill I turned to the southeast and headed back down towards the warmth of home and family.  My walk had been barely three hours, but what a Christmas cracker......

Wednesday 24 December 2014

Happy Christmas

                        Wishing you peace, health and happiness wherever you may be this Christmas

Sunday 21 December 2014

Continuity - winter solstice at Cothiemuir Wood

At the winter solstice we visited the recumbent stone circle at Cothiemuir Wood, a short distance from home.  Set on a low hill and now surrounded by woodland the circle would have been a prominent monument when constructed - construction has been dated to about 2700-2500 BC. 

 The mild weather this midwinter solstice is quite different from  some previous visits,  this year the shortest day has been overcast and damp, the daylight struggling to impose itself, and by mid afternoon it was already dusk. In the low light, the circle  with its 20 tonne recumbent and its flanking stones aligned precisely to the midwinter moon seemed especially striking and atmospheric.  It exudes permanence and continuity and has marked so many solstices.  We noticed a splash of colour in the angle of the west flanker and the recumbent......

...which on closer inspection was a small spray of greenery and holly, carefully tied and placed.  A simple gesture marking the turn of the year and showing a small but continued use for the stones.

Thursday 18 December 2014

Cairn William and Pitfichie Hill - across the granite

Shortly after leaving Whitehills stone circle a mountain bike trail leaves the main forest track and swings up through the forest to emerge at a cairned top. The heathery ridge of Cairn William lies ahead across mixed terain of moor and some scattered stands of trees.  Above the forest I was exposed to a very cold westerly wind and was glad I'd planned the walk to have it at my back.  The bike trail is easily followed but was icy in parts, especially where it crossed granite slabs and boulders which were smeared with verglas-like hard ice.

The upper part of Cairn William is a dome of granite planed smooth by the elements.  It gives good walking......

...if the ice is avoided!  The hill is traversed by a bike trail which links granite slabs, minimising any erosion.

The summit is easily reached and has a nice view across to Millstone Hill and the Mither Tap of Bennachie. At 448 metres/1470 feet Cairn William is a diminutive hill but is a "Marilyn", having an all round drop of over 150 metres.

The view to the east takes in a wide sweep of the Garioch (pronounced locally as "geerie"), the rich farmland around the River Don.  In the foreground and across a shallow dip is Pitfichie Hill, really an outlier of Cairn William.

The view on the descent from Cairn William towards Pitfichie Hill is really fine.  Bennachie dominates, as it does from so many places in Aberdeenshire despite being a relatively small hill.  A beautifully wooded stretch of the River Don snakes bethween the hills, part of the wood near the foot of Pitfichie Hill is named Paradise Wood for good reason.

Little effort is needed  to reach the summit of Pitfichie Hill which is 379 metres/1243 feet high.  In mid-December the days are short and although it was quite early in the afternoon the sun was sinking quickly.  There are a number of routes which can be taken to link up back to the Forest Enterprise car park, the one I chose using minor roads would be the longest in distance but would avoid the icy forest tracks and so actually probably be quicker.  I made the steep descent down to the road at Pitfichie.....

....passing the pretty Pitfichie Castle on my way.  Originally built in the 14th century, Pitfichie was a ruin by the 1960's but has been restored and is once again a private residence.

The walk by the route I took is about 17 kilometres, the going is good for almost all the way with just an occasional muddy stretch.  The paths and trails are primarily mountain bike tracks and if walking it's wise to keep an ear out for cyclists who can fairly fly the trails.

Cairn William and the surrounding area are situated awkwardly on the deges of Ordnance Survey 1:50K Landranger sheets 37 and 38, and also on the edge of OS Pathfinder sheet 405.  Usefully, Forest Enterprise have a map of the mountain bike trails.  Perhaps the most useful overview is to take a picture of the trail information board at the car park - there was a leaflet published by Forest enterprise and although it seems to no longer be available, there are copies online (as here).  The route I took used the white trail to post number 3 before angling up to join the red route at post 16 and working down eventually to post 11and taking the road back to the start.

Wednesday 17 December 2014

Cairn William and Pitfichie Hill - wild music

The December weather in the north-east of Scotland has alternated between deep low pressure systems bringing gales and snow, and bright sunny interludes.  The wind hasn't dropped for long so there hasn't been opportunity for sea kayaking, but conditions have been good for walking.

As a first hillwalk since returning home I chose two local hills, Cairn William and Pitfichie Hill.  The starting point at the carpark for the Pitfichie Forest Cycle Trails is just ten minutes from home, but despite this I still got started an hour later than planned due to faffing about finding kit.  After four months away, things seem always to migrate to the furthest corner of cupboards; it takes a couple of walks or paddles for everything to be reassembled to a state where I can just pick up and go!

The morning was bright and sharp, almost brittle and from the sky came the calls of the geese flocks, so evocative of winter.  In small groups, in flocks and in skeins, the geese were writing patterns across the morning sky as they moved from their roosts to feed on the farmland. Predominantly Greylags but the higher pitched calls of Pinkfeet could be heard too, echoing faintly in the quiet of the forest.

There is a walk of a few kilometres through the wood to start this walk and it proved the most challenging underfoot conditions of the day.  Recent snow had partially melted and then re-frozen into hard translucent ice.  The forest roads were lethally slippery and I had to pick a way along the margins to walk safely.

The track heads uphill for some way before swinging north and emerging into a clearing containing Whitehill Stone Circle.  This is a recumbent stone circle of the type found only in the north east of Scotland and appears to have the same alignment as nearby (7.5 km distant) Old Keig circle in being oriented to the major lunar standstill which occurs at 18.6 year intervals - at the standstill the moon appears to move from high in the sky to low on the horizon in just two weeks.

Whitehill circle is well signposted from the road and is one of the more frequently visited monuments despite not being the most complete of stone circles.  One of the flankers has fallen and lies next to the recumbent with just one face above the ground while all but a couple of the circle stones are fallen or missing.

The interior kerb of stones is one of the most complete examples though; the kerb and central cairn were usually built over a burnt area, leading to an interpretation of a part-funerary purpose for these enigmatic circles.

It was cold in the breeze despite the sunshine and I didn't stay too long, returning to the track to continue on towards Cairn William.  We are fortunate in having so many remainders of our ancient past in circles and stones here, however little we truly know of their purpose or the folk who built them.  Some things can't have changed down the millenia though, the December winds would still have been cold and the geese would still have graced the winter skies with their wild music.

Sunday 14 December 2014

Rise and shine

After a week of storms and snow showers, a calm morning.  I headed out from the house just as the light was coming up for a circular walk of an hour or so.  A pale wash of colour to the southeast hinted at a nice sunrise to come.  The night had been cold and the temperature was still minus 5 degrees Celsius, bracing in the still air.  The dominant sounds were the early morning jostlings, greetings and conversation of the farmland specialists, the "caw" of Rooks, the sharper "chack" of Jackdaws and, in the distance, the high call of a Buzzard

I'd just reached the top of the lane from the house when the colours in the sky drew me to abandon the route of my walk and head up the field edge to a wooded ridgeline with a view east.  The crunch of the icy ground and the brush of my boots through the barley stubbles alerted a small party of Roe deer, three does and a calf.  As their heads swivelled up and towards me I stopped and stood absolutely still.  I was treated to a nice close view for some minutes before the deer moved off with graceful bounds.

Up on the ridge and through the trees, the view across the houses of Bridge of Alford and beyond to Benaquhallie was lit by a glorious sunrise shading from brilliant yellow through gold and pink.  I stood and watched for some twenty minutes as the colours lightened to a searing yellow-white as the sun rose above the higher ground.

The low sun gave a very faint pink tinge to the light and the frigid air rendered everything pin-sharp; the frosting of the trees on Coiliochbar Hill clearly visible across a few kilometres.

The snow cover on the Correen Hills appears well established, but this early in the winter a couple of mild days would strip the brilliant white back to more muted shades.  In the early light the hillside fairly dazzled, offset by the warmer browns of larches.

Now chilled from standing around in the cold air, I turned to head back home.  The sun was yet to reach the houses and a faint waft of woodsmoke was just detectable on the almost still air.  Time for breakfast.......

Wednesday 10 December 2014


Home again after a long spell working away, and the weather has turned towards winter. A storm system lashing the west coast of Scotland with wave heights of up to 15 metres - described in the maritime forecasts as "phenomenal"- was roaring its way across the country. Whilst the winds haven't been as strong in the north east, there is some significant weather here too.

A popular local walk is around or over Knock Saul, a 412 metre/1352 ft hill surrounded by forestry with good tracks.  I thought that the trees might give some shelter from the frequent snow showers blasting in from the west.  Not long after starting out I could see a heavy shower incoming.  The air temperature had been just above freezing all day and so any snow falling was likely to accumulate on the ground.

I increased my pace a little to try and get into the forest before the snow arrived and just about beat it...

...but "shelter" was a relative term as the air rapidly chilled and the snow whirled down through the trees.

The snow continued heavily for over an hour, coating the trees and producing an appropriately Christmas like effect.  As the shower passed the wind fell and the sky began to show signs of clearing.  I had originally thought to just walk around the hill on the forest tracks but the prospect of a view was temptation enough to make the short climb to the summit.

Even at this modest height winter is incoming.  The wind was chilly and at mid-afternoon the light was beginning to fade.  All the surrounding high ground has snow cover though the lower farmland is snow free so far.

There was a pale sunset blush in the sky as I descended back down to the forest track, a wash of colour in a newly monochrome world.

Heading back down the track there had been a noticeable increase in the snow cover.  A large shower to the south passed clear.....

...but a glance to the west into the teeth of the wind showed clearly what was incoming. I battened down and walked on, enjoying the wild weather.