Cuil camping

This the first of two catch-up posts from a camping trip Allan and I made on Loch Linnhe in the second half of April.  The plan was for a relaxed circuit and a couple of nights wild camping; for both of us it was the first overnight trip of the year due to work or health reasons.  A bigger trip was in the planning so this would also be a good shake-out of camping kit.

Our starting point was Cuil Bay on the eastern shore of Loch Linnhe, where a couple of cars can be parked by the side of the minor road above the shore - taking care to leave access for farm vehicles.  Cuil translates as either "wing" or "back", both of which would be good descriptions for the shape of the bay.

The weather looked good with sunshine and cloud dappling the long view down the loch towards the distant Mull hills.

We paddled south down the loch in perfect conditions, enjoying the reflections of the Morvern hills on the mirror calm water.  To our left the main A828 road follows the shore for several kilometres and there was some traffic noise, but this soon fades when the road turns inland a little.

We took luncheon on a tiny pebble beach at the north tip of Shuna (the northerly of two islands with the same name in this area, the other being in the Firth of Lorn).  The sunlight was picking out the colours of the pebbles below the water beautifully - it really was a very relaxing spot.  Looking over the loch to Morvern, I recalled one of our trips from the previous year when we'd paddled around Movern in late summer warmth.  Loch Linnhe seems to be overlooked a bit by sea kayakers, but it does have the potential for good trips.

After paddling around the outside of Shuna, our next stop was at the ferry jetty on Lismore.  There's a toilet and water from a tap at the ferry waiting room here, handy on longer trips.  We now had a decision to make....our plan was very flexible and we'd not planned in any more detail than a starting point and a basic direction down the loch.  From the jetty we could paddle down either side of the island of Lismore (Lios Mor - the big garden, so named for the fertility of the island which is on limestone).

We chose to go down the outside, west, side of the island as it has plenty of interest and a few more camping options.  Within 30 minutes of setting out, a stiff NW'ly breeze blew up and made things quite bouncy - it seemed we'd made the wrong choice!

A considerable chop built up as we passed beneath the ruin of Castle Coeffin.  Built in the 13th century by the MacDougalls of Lorn, the castle passed into ownership of Clan Stewart through marriage and eventually to Clan Campbell.

We were glad of the opportunity to tuck into the bay below the castle for a breather out of the wind.  This bay must have been a factor in the siting of the castle as the MacDougalls were a clan of sea raiders, the beach must have been a perfect base for operating the highland version of a longship - the Birlinn.

The bay also contains the well-preserved remains of a medieval fish trap.  The fish were held back as the tide dropped and could be caught easily in the confines of the trap. 

We considered making our first camp on the cropped turf below the castle, but a reasonably polite notice asks that folk don't camp here as it's close to the croft house and is grazed occasionally by horses.  We had a quick look at the map and decided to backtrack on our route a bit to a spot we'd noticed earlier.

It was a fairly stiff paddle back up against a strengthening wind to reach the spot we had in mind, but it was worthwhile as it was a good place to camp with a little shelter from what had become a cold NW'ly wind - a "Cuil" breeze in fact!

After dinner we managed to find a spot for a campfire below the high water line and enjoyed a dram or two to mark the first kayak camp of the year.

Lismore (more or less)

Lismore is Lios Mor (the big garden) in Gaelic, and the reason for this is the limestone which outcrops on the island. As I paddled north up the eastern side of the island I began to see limestone tufas where water has built up deposits on the rocks. They were an iridescent green on the lower part where mosses are growing in profusion.




Passing right up the length of the island, I stopped to eat lunch at the ferry slip on the northern tip of Lismore. I ate a couple of cereal bars and some fruit whilst looking across to the Pier House restaurant on the Port Appin shore.

I paddled the eastern side of Lismore from Port Appin in December 2008 when the picture at the top of the blog was taken, but I'd not been along the west coast. Soon after passing Port Ramsay, I looked back at the view which opened up to the north - Ben Nevis at the head of Loch Linnhe.




Continuing south along the west coast, one of Lismore's eleven fortifications came into view - Castle Coeffin. Built in the 13th century, it's another of the castles originally belonging to the Macdougalls of Lorn.




The castle ruins resemble a rotting tooth. I walked from the pebble beach below the castle (ideal for beaching Birlinns as well as sea kayaks) up to the Lismore Museum & Tearoom. Unfortunately it was closed for a children's party, so no tea and cakes for me!



Towards the south end of the island, another castle sits on the clifftop - Achaduin (place of the Castle!). This was a hall house for the mediaeval Bishops of Argyll - judging by the imposing military appearance, the Bishop's religious garb was just for the weekend!

I'd paddled right around Lismore, more or less. From here to the south tip of the island, the cliffs grow higher and are split with gullies. I paddled on to the beach I'd spotted in the morning, hoping that I could find a good spot to pitch the tent.